Quality Over Quantity
Nicole Hadfield, Designer, Oosterom
Nicole Hadfield grew up at a kitchen table covered in fabric, buttons, and possibility. The designer behind Oosterom traces her practice back to her Oma, a machinist for Bendon who kept a cupboard full of craft supplies and taught Nicole and her sisters to make things with their hands. That foundation has never left her work.
We spoke with Nicole about the path that brought her to fashion, the designers shaping her thinking, and what comes after the runway.
What led you to a career in fashion?
"I come from a family of makers. My Oma, Pietje van Oosterom, had a giant cupboard in her house full of anything crafty you could ever dream of. From wood etching kits to buttons and puffy fabric paint, I spent long weekends with her alongside my two older sisters sewing, gluing, painting and drawing at the kitchen table."
Her Oma was a machinist for Bendon. Her mother made all of the family's clothes. The succession felt natural.
"After winning a competition at high school to work backstage for Karen Walker at New York Fashion Week, my focus to be creative has never wavered. I'm driven by the need for quality over quantity in the fast-paced industry of fashion. The importance of maintaining craft and the integrity of each garment has always been the underlying focus within my work."
What advice would you give to anyone wanting to work in fashion?
“The fashion industry is not as glamorous as meets the eye. Be ready to work really hard, say yes to every opportunity, and gain as much experience as you can. There are many facets to the industry. Figure out what you're good at and what drives you. If you can, it's always helpful to have a mentor, someone who you look up to with a wealth of knowledge and who can share advice when you're feeling a little stuck.”
Tell us about your fashion influences, past and present.
"I have always been heavily influenced by Japanese designers and their appreciation of volume and movement. The likes of Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo were always top influencers whilst I was studying fashion design at Whitecliffe College of Arts and Design. Finding beauty in imperfection, appreciating craft and the tactility of fabrics often influenced my own creative exploration."
More recently, her references have shifted towards something a little lighter.
"At present, I seem to be going down a more feminine rabbit hole, with the same appreciation for volume and texture but perhaps in a lighter, more playful way. Molly Goddard, Cecilie Bahnsen, and Simone Rocha make me smile every time. I can't help but be influenced by their experimentation with form and extreme femininity. To me it portrays a view of anti-sexuality and allows women, and men, to dress for themselves and to challenge society's expectations."
It has been some time since Oosterom showed at NZFW's Viva Next Gen. What has happened since?
"NZFW23 opened many doors for Oosterom, including press opportunities, new stockists, and dedicated followers of the brand. My focus has been on steadily growing my made-to-order clientele and creating long lasting relationships with my customers. The current cost of living crisis leans towards more considered spending, with a focus on quality, fit, and longevity. Three things that we do very well at Oosterom."
And what is next?
"I'm currently in summer dreamland designing for a much warmer climate whilst wearing merino layers and sipping on hot beverages. I'm excited to be shifting my focus from processes and production to creativity and design for a while, as I haven't had the chance over the past nine months. The perks of being a small business owner. As Oosterom steadily gains traction, I hope to bring back the creative balance into the business and give the local industry a burst of much needed creative energy."
Discover Oosterom at oosteromofficial.com